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Sola Oyebade CEO of Mahogany Models one of UK’s top modeling agents, events manager and a scout... in this issue tells us more about the business of modeling.
That is the business side of modeling. In our last issue she told us about how to get on the catwalk and make it.
Oh Yes: What does one need to know about modeling and the business side of it?
SOLA: While I was growing up the “in thing” was to work hard to become a doctor, lawyer or an accountant, that was then, now most young men want to be footballers while the young women want to be models. The popularity of such programmes and competitions such as America’s Next Top Model, Make Me a Supermodel, Face of Africa, Top Model of Colour and other such reality TV programmes have made modeling one of the most sought after careers for young women.
It is one thing wanting to be a model and actually being able to be a model and another being a successful model. I come across all types of wannabe models everyday and a lot of them have absolutely no idea of what it really takes to be a model, what is involved and in particular they have no idea of the business side of modelling, which is a great shame. So I have come up with answers to some of the questions most frequently asked by models about the business side of being a model.
Oh Yes: What does it cost to start as a model?
SOLA: As a model you are self-employed, independent contractor, you are considered a sole trader in your own small business, you are not an employee of the agency you may be signed to. Whether you are a freelance model or signed to a top modelling agency you will incur basic start-up costs and as such you will be required to cover all of your own promotional expenses such as composite cards (Z Cards), agency books (portfolio), and for some agencies they will charge you to be on their website.
These promotional expenses can run anywhere from £50 - £300 per year to post photos on the agency website, £100 - £500 per year for composite cards, in addition to couriers, postage, legal and accounting fees. Professional models understand that this is simply the cost of doing business and it is standard in the industry for the model to cover these promotional expenses.
Modeling agencies often hear new models say, “Well, if you liked me you would pay for everything”. Unfortunately, the hype surrounding modeling agencies paying for expenses is grossly exaggerated and often wishful thinking on the part of new models who don’t understand how the modeling industry really works.
Oh Yes: Should one pay for an agency to represent him or her?
SOLA: I advise all models that I come across that they should not pay an agency to represent them. Agencies earn their money from commissions or royalties directly received from their clients or via the fees from the work that the model does. Top professional agencies do not charge a joining fee and neither do they insist that you use one of their photographers to do your portfolio, however with the top agencies it is advisable to follow their recommendations on which photographers to use to do your portfolio as that way you are more likely to get the right type of pictures that the agency needs, to promote you and get you work.
We advise all models that if an agency asks you to pay a fee to join them, insist that you must do an expensive portfolio before you join or pay an administration fee, then simply say no and walk away.
However as a model you must expect to invest in your career and will have to spend some money to get started and that is different from investing in your own basic start-up costs that don’t involve the agency, such as photo shoots, composite cards, etc. These are essential tools that you need as a model. Without these tools you are a bit like a car mechanic who has no tools.
Modeling Contracts
Over the years I have come across numerous models who have signed modelling contracts without reading them properly and then finding out later that they cannot get out of them or are effectively being ripped off. It is imperative that you read the contract fully and if you are unsure about anything seek advice.
A modeling contract is a legal document that you are sign, which as a starter may not be a problem, but if you sign an unfavorable contract and you become famous it could cost you financially and in some cases could affect your career.
Ensure that you read the contract very carefully and do not sign an exclusive contract unless within the contract you are guaranteed sufficient amount of income per month or per annum.
Oh Yes: When should I sign an exclusive modeling contract?
SOLA: Many years ago modeling agencies always signed their models on an exclusive contract, which meant that the model could not work for any other agency or do freelance work. Over the years things have changed and it is no longer compulsory to sign an exclusive contract.
To protect models, governments have brought in guidelines and in some cases legislations to stop models being ripped off, so models within the UK will only be signed to an exclusive modeling contract if they are guaranteed X amount of paid work monthly or annually, which is close to or more than the equivalent of an annual wage.
Oh Yes: Can I or should I join more than one agency?
SOLA: Even though models can sign with different agencies, unless they are signed on an exclusive contract, my advice is that it is advisable to sign to only one or maximum two agencies at a time. The only exception to this rule is if the agencies are located in different parts of the country or different countries or are specialist agencies doing different types of modeling from the main agency you are signed to. It is advisable that you only join reputable agencies. Also make sure you inform the new agency of any other agencies you are signed to.
Oh Yes: Can an agency guarantee you work?
SOLA: No agency can guarantee you work, but reputable agencies will do their best to find work for you as they only make money if you make money.
Oh Yes: How much do models get paid?
SOLA: This purely depends on the client or product you are working on and the type of modeling work you do. The fees can vary from £40 a day through to tens of thousands of pounds for big national campaigns. When your experience and portfolio grows, your rates grow also. Supermodels now make up to £15,000 a day.
Oh Yes: How long does it take to get paid for a finished job?
SOLA: Usually it takes within 60-90 days of the assignment being completed and it must be understood that even if it gets to 90 days and the agency is not paid, neither will you.
Oh Yes: What is the maximum amount of commission that an agency should charge me?
SOLA: The industry standard is 20 per cent of the gross pay, be wary of agencies wishing to charge more than 20 per cent. Oh Yes: What kind of advertising materials do models use?
SOLA: Composite cards, portfolios of test pictures, participation in agency books and tear sheets.
OH Yes: Who pays for the advertising material?
SOLA: The models always pay for their own materials.
Oh Yes: How often should I update my portfolio?
SOLA: Your portfolio needs to reflect your current look. Since hairstyles and clothing styles change rapidly your portfolio needs to reflect not only your current look, but also the current trend in Fashion.
You have to understand that photos in your portfolio will compete with other portfolios. If your portfolio is great - you will win. But if your photos are not good enough - you will lose, which means that you may never get a good job and probably no job at all.
Oh Yes: Why will I be asked to do a test shoot or a mini portfolio?
SOLA: Most unprofessional models may be asked to do a test shoot before they are signed up to an agency, this is to ensure that they can take good pictures and to see what the true potential maybe. It also gives you the opportunity to gain some invaluable experience of working under the conditions of a professional photo shoot with a professional photographer.
Time and time again models tell us that they have spent hundreds of pounds, even up to £1,000 or more, on a portfolio, which might look nice but is not suitable for a professional modeling agency to use.
The ideal model portfolio book should consist of up to 15 top quality A4 size pictures taken by a variety of photographers and include colour, black and white, studio and location pictures and any tear sheets that you may have.
Oh Yes: Is it very expensive to do a test shoot?
SOLA: All models need a portfolio to get started within the industry and If you have no experience or any professional pictures then at some point you would need to obtain some, as ultimately the better your portfolio, the more chances you have of getting good paid work.
Pictures are anywhere between £250 - £500 for a test session, that will produce 3-5 printed photographs and a number of pictures on a CD.
However, the cost of shooting with a good photographer is closer to £500 for 5 photographs. However my advice is, do not spend more than £500 on a photo shoot preferably a lot less when you are getting started as you need to continuously keep your portfolio up to date.
Copyright
The photographer or his client always owns the copyrights and negatives and other media of a photo session. Never expect to receive any negatives. If you want to get your negatives, you have to negotiate it before your shooting session. Do not forget to include this condition in the shooting contract.
At all times remember that you are self employed running your own modelling business and as such you must treat it like a business and ensure that you research fully into everything that you need to run your model business properly.
Next time I will talk about the different types of modelling genres and give advice to you as to which one may best suit you. By Sola Oyebade |
